Petite Plaisance In a simple house she dubbed "a small pleasure" in Northeast Harbor, one of the century's most brilliant writers lived in almost complete obscurity for thirty-seven years. By Agnes Bushell. N ORTHEAST Harbor on Mount an island in Maine developed a world-wide Desert Island is a quiet, unassum- cult following of this magnitude? Yource- ing village on the southern fringe nar's 1951 novel, Memoirs of Hadrian, is of Acadia National Park, far removed currently available in thirty-five languages. from the noisy bustle of Bar Harbor. Even In France her work is taught in high schools, at the height of the summer season its and in Belgium there is an annual writing streets are quiet after dark, and in the day- contest in her honor, open to young writers time it's not difficult to find a parking spot under twenty-one; last year's winner was a on Main Street, where visitors heading to sixteen-year-old from Greece. During her Acadia or opting to stroll through the lifetime, Yourcenar was an officer in the town's beautiful Asticou Azalea Gardens French Legion of Honor and the first woman can pick up a bag of homemade pastries inducted into the prestigious Académie at the village bakery before setting out. guides visitors through Yourcenar's white Française, founded in 1635 and comprised Yet every summer hundreds of visitors clapboard house, a modest Cape built in of forty writers called the "Immortals," since come to Northeast Harbor for more than its 1866, this is not entirely bad news. Last year a new member is elected by the Académie proximity to Acadia. They come from the 641 pilgrims from fourteen countries visit- only when one of its members dies. After far reaches of the world - from Ukraine ed Petite Plaisance; one year, the number her death, Yourcenar was honored by hav- and Croatia, Colombia and Argentina, Le- reached 1,000. Since both Lunt and Howard ing her portrait on a French stamp. banon and Turkey and even Japan, though knew Yourcenar personally (Lunt was her Such displays of official respect reflect most are European, particularly French. assistant for ten years; Howard visited the passionate attachment of her readers. It They are pilgrims, making the journey to Yourcenar often while writing her doctoral is just a small irony that most of those read- Mount Desert Island for one reason only: to dissertation on the author's work), their ers come from away - far away though visit Petite Plaisance, the home of Margue- hourlong tours are filled with intimate details. last year nearly a quarter of the visitors to rite Yourcenar, a writer SO little known in Knowing that visitors to Petite Plaisance are Petite Plaisance were American. But no mat- this country that even natives of Northeast devotees of the author, the women are ter where they come from, Yourcenar's Harbor, where she lived from 1950 until her delighted to share their knowledge, but a dra- readers find a visit to her home an extraor- death in 1987, often draw a blank when a matic rise in the number of visitors might dinarily moving experience. visitor mentions her name. prove difficult for them to manage. The house is just as she left it; all of her For Jeannie Lunt, one of the trustees of How did it happen that an intellectual possessions, her cozy armchairs and worn Yourcenar's estate, and Joan Howard, who French writer living in self-imposed exile on oriental rugs, her 7,000 books, her engrav- Famous across Europe as the first woman ever invited to join the forty "Immortals" of the Académie Française, Marguerite Yourcenar (above) preferred the quiet life of a Mount Desert Island village to the excitement of international literary capitals. Today her house remains virtually as it was when she died in 1987, attracting pilgrims every year from around the globe. 80 DOWN EAST JULY 99 Photographs by Brian Vanden Brink ings by Piranesi and photographs of works of classical art, the many trinkets and mementos she picked up on her travels, her desk with the manual typewriter she used, even her pots and pans and dishes, are exactly as they were during her lifetime. One walks through the small rooms feeling she might have just left the house for the after- noon to go to the market, might return at any moment with a loaf of bread under her arm. An almost palpable sense of her presence in the house has been noted by many visitors. Y OURCENAR, whose birth name was Marguerite Cleenewerck de Crayencour - the name Yourcenar is one she created, an anagram of Crayen- cour - was born of French parents in Belgium in 1903. She lived in France until the outbreak of World War II, publishing several novels there in the twenties and thir- ties. When the war began, she moved with her American companion, Grace Frick, to In a community known for its the United States. They summered in sprawling summer estates, Yourcenar's Somesville in the forties and fell in love with house is smaller than some caretakers' Mount Desert Island. In 1950 they bought residences. Never strapped for funds - a house in Northeast Harbor and named it her books sold well and her partner Petite Plaisance. of forty years was wealthy - the The following year Memoirs of Hadrian, author clearly put more stock in a rich a novelistic "autobiography" of the Roman intellectual life. Her house today still emperor, written as a discourse to his heir, holds her 7,000-volume library (below) Marcus Aurelius, was published in France as well as all her personal mementos to great acclaim. Yourcenar's second major (opposite), but if the luminary ever work, L'oeuvre au noir (in English, The allowed herself any extravagance, it Abyss) appeared in May 1968 in the midst doesn't show. Few of her Maine of the May Revolt in Paris, and this novel, neighbors had any idea of her stature about a sixteenth-century nonconformist abroad. Indeed, many didn't persecuted by the Church for his free think- even know her name. ing, struck a chord with the young. Yource- nar's cult following had begun. But just at the point when Yourcenar's name was becoming well-known in her native Belgium, and a return to France, where she was both revered and beloved, would have seemed most inevitable, a personal tragedy struck. Frick developed cancer, and Yourcenar refused to leave her, even to travel abroad. For the next ten years, she concentrated on writing vol- umes of autobiography and on caring for Frick, who died in November 1979. Just over a year later, in January 1981, Yource- nar's career was crowned by her election to the Académie Française. During the remainder of her life, Yourcenar travelled extensively, but she continued to write and translate in her study at Petite Plaisance. Though she was now free to return to France, she declined to do SO. She had once said she might live in Britanny, but when asked by a French (Continued on page 105) 82 DOWN EAST JULY 1999 83 Petite Plaisance When you (Continued from page 82) move Down East, journalist why she remained on Mount call Desert Island, she replied, "I have my Britanny here." EarleW.Noyes Northeast Harbor has a long history of &Sons protecting the privacy of its famously wealthy residents, and in much the same way, the villagers shielded Yourcenar, who Agents for is still referred to around town as Madame. "Grace was her watchdog," Robert Pyle, United Van Lines head librarian of the Northeast Harbor library recalls. "After her death, the com- UNITED munity took on that obligation." Pyle, who UNITED remembers the writer as a neighbor and library patron, a woman with a wonderful UNITED sense of humor, and "one of my favorite people," says that Yourcenar had no desire Fine Reproduction Redware Van Lines to be considered famous. On the contrary, In a Full Line of Pieces she cherished her privacy and was fortunate Oxford & Franklin Sts., Museum quality, hand made redware in the to live among people who respected that. Anglo-American tradition. Available in full Portland, ME "Yourcenar wrote in French, and in France place settings - plates and bowls of all sizes, she was very popular," he says. "It was not bowls 18" across, pitchers, sugar pots, even Toll Free: 800-341-7576 That what this cat food bowls. Portland Area: 775-5876 extremely erudite HF woman liked found so Harbor Farm, Inc. Celebrating our 76th year. Little Deer Isle, Maine 04650 many readers is a (800) 342-8003 Fax: (207) 348-7713 testament to the power of great literature to Because engage the human imagination. we said so! by accident that she chose to live in an and that's only one reason English-speaking area where her work would not be widely read." you deserve spirited In any language, Yourcenar's work is retirement options. not light reading. Her books are complex, almost philosophical novels of ideas, and the two most popular are set in the distant past, periods that are both quite different from and yet uncannily similar to our own: the Roman Empire just before its Lobster Claw Pendant, 18k gold with .sct diamond River Cottage Homes exhaustion and decline, and the political chaos and religious persecutions of the Independent Apartments early years of the Reformation. So HARBOR removed from the mainstream of con- A peacefully elegant temporary fiction are these books in both SQUARE environment, located on style and subject that the popularity of thirty-seven acres along the Hadrian was a great surprise to Yourcenar GALLERY Kennebunk River. herself. In an interview with French jour- nalist Matthieu Galey, she said that she a place of beauty didn't expect more than ten people to read Hadrian because she doubted that the THOMAS O'DONOVAN issues that concerned her would be of goldsmith interest to anyone else. Without the need HUNTINGTON COMMON to write for money - Frick came from a 374 MAIN STREET A Retirement Living Community wealthy family - Yourcenar was in the KENNEBUNK, MAINE ROCKLAND, MAINE enviable position of writing about what 1.207.985.2810 or 1-800-585-0533 207 594 8700 she liked. That what this extremely eru- www.huntingtoncommon.com dite and aristocratic woman liked found JULY 1999 105 SO many sympathetic readers is a testa- ment to the power of great literature to engage the human imagination. Just as Yourcenar, the writer, stood apart from the literary trends of her time, Yourcenar, the woman, was adamantly opposed to the contemporary vogue of dis- closing information of a personal nature, particularly what she referred to as "sen- sual choices." Though she lived with a 30 YEARS OF BUILDING FOR woman for forty years, she never identified VISION BUILDERS MIDCOAST-MAINE FAMILIES herself as a lesbian. Though she was one Rt. 90 P.O. Box 599 Rockport, ME 04856 207-236-4985 of the most popular women writers in France, she never identified herself as a "woman writer" either, nor as a feminist. In fact, there is a good deal of misogyny in Yourcenar's portrayal of women. Her Maine The way life used to be. major protagonists - Alexis (from the novel bearing his name), Hadrian, and Zeno, the hero of The Abyss - are not only Come discover a world-class collection male, but homosexual, though she claimed of nautical antiquities, boat building, they were "more bisexual than homosex- visiting tall ships, narrated Kennebec ual." All such categories disturbed her. As Joan Howard says, "Madame hated labels." River boat rides, and much more. Call or write for our free brochure. By opening her MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM house to her readers, M 243 WASHINGTON STREET, BATH, MAINE 04530 207-443-1316 Yourcenar has left both them and her adopted state a great legacy. Down East The Magazine of Maine Though her gender politics were far from Home Search http://wwwdowneast.com/ "correct," Yourcenar was actively involved in a number of other social issues. A lifelong Down East New vegetarian and a Buddhist by philosophical inclination, she was a passionate defender of animal rights and environmental conserva- The Magazine of Maine tion. It was her letter to Le Monde which alerted French readers to the masssacre of baby seals in Newfoundland, beginning a movement in Europe to boycott the import- In This Issue ing of seal fur. She was a financial contribu- Subscribe On-Line Subscriber Services tor to global family-planning programs and Advertiser Links organizations that supported human rights. A Springtime Visit Maine Books & Calendars York Harbor "When we strike a child or let it go hungry," Maine Information Links Bridgton's Most Popular Resident she told the journalist Galey, "we are com- Billowing Art Belfest Advertising Information Inside Portland's Boxing mitting a crime against the universe. The Binders & Slipcases same is true when we kill an animal for no Editorial Guidelines May 1999 Frequently Asked Questions purpose or cut down a tree without good rea- Copyright c 1999 by Down East Enterprise, Inc. All rights reserved. son. Each time we do these things we are betraying our mission as human beings With sympathy - such a beautiful word, which means 'to feel with' begins both In addition to a sneak preview of Plus www.downeast.com offers: love and goodness." the latest issue, www.downeast.com Links to advertisers' Web sites offers easier-than-ever on-line A sampling of Maine books and D URING the ten years of Frick's ill- subscription services that allow you to: calendars from Down East Books ness, Yourcenar was absent from Check on your account Links to a variety of Maine sites French society, and was perceived Subscribe and renew on-line A selection of frequently asked by the French press as an antisocial recluse Give gift subscriptions Down East questions who had abandoned France. Joan Howard And plenty more! says it was to answer these critics that Yourcenar established the trust to keep her 106 DOWN EAST the house open to the public. "Madame was Harbor View Inn always social," she explains. "There were always guests here. But all these journalists at Newcastle kept calling her a recluse, SO before she died she decided to set up a trust SO her house would continue to be open to guests." Then she adds, smiling, "Madame always liked to have the last word." A visitor to Petite Plaisance can only rejoice that Yourcenar wanted that last word. By opening her house to her read- ers, she has left both them and her adopt- ed state a great legacy. In the summer sun- shine, her garden is still ablaze with color, filled with wild flowers, fruit trees, and paths that meander through a small wood- Enjoy spectacular views of the Dama- ed area left unlandscaped except for sub- riscotta/Newcastle Harbor and the gra- tle Japanese influences. Readers know that cious hospitality of this casually elegant it was here in the garden that she finished 1800's Bed and Breakfast. the last pages of The Abyss: "I remember New Designs In Our Stunning Spacious airy bedrooms. All with the very last moment of the work," she told Stone Ware Tiles private tiled baths, telephones and Galey. "It was midsummer. I was lying in These tough, hand made stone ware tiles are cable availability. Most with fire- a hammock, in the garden and with my as remarkable for their excellent sculpting as places and decks. just-finished manuscript still in hand, I for their extraordinary colors. Sumptuous breakfasts. Short walk repeated Zeno's name over and over again, to town. perhaps as many as 300 times or more, try- HF ing to bring him closer to me, to secure his P.O. Box 791, Newcastle, ME 04553 presence in that moment, which in some Harbor Farm, Inc. 207-563-2900 sense was his last." Little Deer Isle, Maine 04650 www.theharborview.com For Americans who love and appreci- (800) 342-8003 Fax: (207) 348-7713 ate Yourcenar's work, a journey to North- east Harbor will be an inspiring addition to a vacation on Mount Desert Island. And 1999 Sixty Seventh Season for those planning such a visit, who may OGUNQUIT be unfamiliar with her work, it's not too late to become a Yourcenar fan. PLAYHOUSE Petite Plaisance is open to visitors over twelve years of age from June 15 to August Evenings exc. Sun. 8; Mat. Wed. & Thur. 2:30 31 by appointment only. Visitors may write JUNE 21 JULY 3 to the trust or telephone for reservations Boisterous, hilarious musical comedy hit A FUNNY THING HAPPENED Coming Home at least a day in advance. The number is ON THE WAY TO THE FORUM 207-276-3940. There is no entrance fee or The anticipation as you draw near. The charge for the tour. No photographs are JULY 5 JULY 17 opportunity to truly relax. Familiar sights, permitted inside the house, but bookstores Ira Levin's DEATHTRAP starring KEIR DULLEA old friends, and sharing time with family. in the village carry a book of color photo- Broadway's scalp-tingling mystery thriller Regardless of where you were born, a return home just feels right. It is a moving, graphs with a detailed commentary by JULY 19 JULY 31 almost spiritual, experience. Our gulls, Yvon Bernier, entitled Petite Plaisance. A MAJORITY OF ONE gliding together on the wind, symbolize the The book can also be ordered for $16.50 An Enchanting Comedy two of you and your return home. from the Petite Plaisance Trust, P.O. Box AUGUST 2 AUGUST 14 Comes beautifully gift wrapped with the 403, Northeast Harbor 04662. Specify '97 Tony Award Winning Romantic Comedy sentiments expressed by this piece on a small card tucked inside the box. Made as a French or English, and add $2.00 for THE LAST NIGHT OF BALLYHOO pin, shown actual size. postage. The Northeast Harbor Library by the author of Driving Miss Daisy has a complete collection of Yourcenar's AUGUST 2 - AUGUST 14 Coming Home Gulls 14K yellow gold works as well as newspaper archives and Moss Hart's wickedly funny $235.00 a recording of her funeral service in its LIGHT UP THE SKY Absolute Satisfaction Guaranteed oral-history section. At bookstores every- AUGUST 30- SEPTEMBER 4 (one week only) Mail or phone orders M-F 9am 5pm 1-800-433-2988 where, Memoirs of Hadrian and The BROADWAY'S BEST SING Postage Pd. Sent within 24 hours UPS Second Day Air Visa, MasterCard or American Express Abyss are available in English, as are her GERSHWIN other novels and autobiographical works. Visit our Website www.ogunquitplayhouse.org Cross Jewelers There is also a detailed biography by BOX OFFICE 207-646-5511 Jewelers to New England Since 1908 Josyane Savigneau, and Matthieu Galey's ALL SEATS $25.00 MC/VISA Accepted 570D Congress St. Portland, ME 04101 www.crossjewelers.com 92 own book of conversations, With Open Mail Orders: PO Box 915, Ogunquit, ME 03907 Eyes, is extremely interesting. JULY 1999 107